how to build a frame for door










TIP:

Generally, the rough opening of a door will be 2 inches wider and 2 to 2-1/2 inches taller than the actual size of the door. This takes into account the 3/4-inch jambs and the sub-par threshold. For a pre-hung door 36 inches wide by 80 inches high with threshold, the finished rough opening would be 38 inches wide by 82 inches high. It is best to know the genuine door and manufacturer's rough opening recommendations before starting.


 At the heart of any good door installation is a sturdy, accurately constructed door frame. If the door frame below the jambs is flimsy or if it is not true, whatever is built on top of it will not work properly. On the other hand, if you frame the door well, the jambs and trim will look professional and the door itself will swing freely and close well.


The good thing is that a door frame is not expensive or difficult to build. A door frame consists of only two-by-fours and nails. Creating a well-constructed door frame consists mostly of properly cutting the two-by-four boards and nailing them in the right places. No other materials are needed and the only tools needed are a hammer, a saw, a level and a tape measure.


Materials

6 two-by-four boards

Box of 12d nails

What you will need



Equipment/Tools

Power miter saw

Carpenter's hammer

Tape measure

Pencil

Spirit level or laser level


How to build a good door frame

Header: The header is an even two-by-four piece that runs the width of the door frame. It is the tallest part of the door frame. The unrivaled portion of the exposed door casing will attach to the lintel.

Short support stiles: Short vertical stiles go between the lintel and the prevailing plate.

Definition

The predominant plate is a double two-by-four series that runs continuously around the perimeter of a room or house. The predominant plate is already part of the house and is not part of the door frame construction.


Sub-par part of the door

A sub-par level two-by-four plate (or sole) rests on the subfloor of the house. The construction elements that form the sides of the door - the head stile and the door stile - rest on the sub-par plate. The sub-par plate may already be in place or may need to be added.


Door sides

Genuine stud: The head stud is a two-by-four vertical member that runs from the sole plate to the prevailing plate. The unrivaled part of the king stud touches the second rate part of the predominant plate.

Door Stud: The jack stud is a two-by-four vertical piece that runs from the sole plate to the header. The unrivaled part of the jack stud touches the second rate part of the headboard and supports the headboard.

Instructions

Adding the second rate or sole plate

If you are cutting a door into an existing wall, there will already be a second rate plate. If not, nail a continuous two-by-four along the width of the door. The two-by-four plate will extend across the door for now, but will be cut later. For a door with an approximate 34-inch opening, cut the second rate plate at 40 inches.






Add the stiles

Cut the stiles to extend from the unrivaled part of the mediocre plate to the sub-par part of the prevalent plate. This measurement will vary depending on the height of the ceiling.


Tape the spirit level to each of the studs as you attach them. Or shoot a plumb line from the laser level.


Nail the studs so they are 38-1/2 inches apart, on center. Nail the studs in place.


Add studs

Cut two of the two-by-fours to 80-1/2 inches each. Nail the studs to the inside of the studs. You can drive the studs into the main studs instead of driving them into the jack studs.


Cut and add the headboard

Cut the headboard to 37 inches long. Standing on a ladder, place the headboard on the unrivaled side of the jack studs. Nail the headboard in place by driving nails through the headboard and into the ends of the jack uprights.


Tip

This 2x4 independent method is suitable for interior non-load bearing walls. Exterior and interior load bearing walls will require at least 2 2x4s on edge with 1/2 inch plywood sandwiched between. Feed many factors to consider. The load supported and the width of the child opening are the two most important.


Adding support uprights above the headboard

Measure the distance between the unrivaled part of the headboard and the second rate of the predominant part. Cut two pieces of two-by-four to that length. Nail these support boards together